Darjeeling - The Queen of Hills

Situated at a height of 2134 meters ( About 7000 ft ) , Darjeeling is one of the highest hill stations in India. 

Did you know that the British East India Company ensured Darjeeling was well maintained and made sure all their children went to Darjeeling for their schooling . This was because of the beautiful weather and the cleanliness of the place and most important no mosquitoes. 

Hence some of the fine boarding schools in India are in Darjeeling. The Himalayan Railways were built for the same reason, easy accessibility to Darjeeling.

Driving up through the tea gardens 

From Gangtok, the route is back down to Baghdogra and then drive all the way up to Darjeeling. So you will be coming back and taking a detour. The roads are not very good and extremely winding. So ensure you rent a bigger vehicle like an Innova to drive comfortably. 

Unlike Gangtok, I found Darjeeling more crowded and kind of messy. Every street was crowded and vehicles struggled to move through. Streets were narrow and the same street had people, kids from school, cows and stalls on both sides and vehicles trying to pass through. So coming back from Gangtok, this kind of got to my nerves. 

Anyways, we got some rest before heading off to see the Japanese Peace Pagoda.  

Japanese Peace Pagoda - Darjeeling

I thought the Japanese Peace Pagoda was like any other Pagoda housing Buddha statues for Prayer. But that's not what it is. There are 80 Japanese Peace Pagodas across the world and Darjeeling is one of those. 

Tall Trees near the Pagoda

Peace Pagoda standing tall among the trees

   

This is the vision of a Japanese Monk to promote world peace. The first peace Pagoda was built in 1947 in Japan to honor the people who lost their lives during the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombing. Since then 80 Peace Pagodas have been built across the globe to spread world peace. It was beautiful to walk around the place and since it was a foggy morning the overall ambiance was just uplifting. 

After spending some time at the Pagoda, we headed straight to the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. My expectation was something similar to Mysore Zoo with just one or two endangered animals. I was in for a surprise. 

It took us nearly 3 hours to walk inside the entire Zoological park. You have to walk and see the place, no buggy or any other mode of transport inside. Keep your water bottles with you coz you will need to be hydrated and maybe some biscuits to eat when you take a small break. 

This park is built on a hill so do not expect a straight path anywhere. The 3-hour walk is basically up and down a hill. And such a beautifully maintained Zoological Park. I can very confidently say that I saw most of the animals there for the first time, some I had not even heard of. Various endangered species of deers. Wolves, Snow leopard. And the highlight is the Red Panda. So many colorful birds that I have not even seen in pictures or heard the name of. I was like a kid in a candy store, in fact, all three of us were like kids in there. We were seeing animals for the first time and read names and facts about animals for the first time. Amazing place! must not miss it if you are in Darjeeling...

 Red Panda who seemed to be enjoying the attention 

Our next big agenda in Darjeeling was the Toy Train. This was my first toy train experience as I had missed the Toy train ride in Ooty. So I was totally looking forward to this more than my Daughter. 

Couple of things to keep in mind about the Toy Train ride. My recommendation is to book the tickets well in advance and you can do it on the IRCTC site. 

You have the option to choose between a diesel engine and a steam engine. Go for the steam engine, it is a different experience and not something you will get to do often. 

Steam Engine 

It is about 2 hour round trip. The train goes from Darjeeling to Ghoom and stops for a while to let you see the place and a Train Museum and then back to Darjeeling station.  

Ghum - Last stop of the toy train ride 

British had set up the Himalayan Railway for their kids to travel for studies and also to bring injured soldiers and patients suffering from Malaria for recovery. Apparently, the hills have a lot of medicinal plants and it is a perfect place for recovery of mind and body.

The train ride was awesome and the specialty of it is that this is the only railway line that runs parallel to a regular motorway. So while you are on the train, you will see scooters and cars driving next to you and also shops on the other side. So you are going on a train on the road, there is no separate elevated track. You will know when you experience it. 

Back after the train ride we did some shopping in the main shopping area and were pretty much done for the day. We were finally heading back home in a day. 

We had our flight from Baghdogra so we headed to Siliguri the next day, stayed the night, and then took a cab to the airport. I would recommend you check your flight timings and manage it accordingly because the roads are extremely congested. Hence plan well to ensure you reach the airport on time. 

Finally, we were headed back home after a beautiful stay in 2 states Sikkim and West Bengal. Out of the two Gangtok is hands down my favorite. 

So now I have covered 2 of the 7 sisters - Meghalaya and Sikkim, and 5 more to go. Looking forward to more North-Eastern India trips. It is a very rugged terrain but trust me, you will appreciate how beautiful our country is if you start traveling towards the North-Eastern part of our country. 

Until my next travelog, Stay healthy, get vaccinated and travel safe ... the world is waiting for you ... 

Gangtok - Land Of Monasteries

The much-awaited trip after 2 years .... Beautiful Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim. 

Gangtok is at a height of about 1650 m. Getting to Gangtok from Bangalore is a bit tiring but like I always say, the journey is as beautiful as the destination.  

From Bangalore, you can fly to Baghdogra which is the closest and best option. From Baghdogra you can take the road to Gangtok. It is a rough ride about 5 -6 hours with breaks. My suggestion is to hire a bigger vehicle like Innova so that you are comfortable. 

We reached Baghdogra at about 11 am in the morning after a 3.5-hour flight. Since you will be driving for long and on mountainous terrain, be well hydrated and eat well. Do not overeat or go empty stomach. A couple of must-haves from my backpack for drive up the mountains as I have a motion-sick daughter with me - lots of water, fruits like apples, some bland crackers, Marie biscuit, hard candy ( trust me this works like a charm when you are driving up winding roads ) and to be on the safer side lots of tissue paper and garbage covers. 

And we headed up the mountains from Baghdogra. Till you get out of the city limits the roads are bad with heavy traffic. After about 2 hours we finally started heading upwards and the scenery slowly started changing. 

Take ample breaks, do not try to challenge the mountains. Plan your trip with good acclimatization time, it is very important healthwise and also to enjoy your vacation. 

Our first break was after about 3 hours, we were halfway up the mountain and there was the Teesta river flowing right below us. There are small restaurants where you can stop for a chai and Maggi and enjoy the view before you move forward. 

The Teesta river is about 400 km long, it originates in the Eastern Himalayas and flows through Sikkim, West Bengal, Bangladesh, and finally enters the Bay of Bengal. 

Teesta River which originates in the Eastern Himalayas

The drive from here on was a bit rugged as there was construction going on in certain places and the roads were broken too. You definitely need to plan your trip to Gangtok considering weather conditions as these roads are extremely dangerous during rainy seasons as they are prone to landslides. 

After 6 long hours, we finally reached Club Mahindra Gangtok, the place which was our home for the next 5 days. We called it a day and had early dinner and hit the bed. I had forgotten how tiring driving through mountains makes us. 

We had to get ample rest because next on our itinerary was the Tsomgo Lake, situated at an altitude of 13000 feet. This was the first time I was doing this high altitude with my daughter. So there was a whole lot of research that had gone into this trip. 

The most important point, irrespective of when you travel to Gangtok, make sure you have your thermals and warm clothes packed. A good windcheater, fleece jacket, gloves, good shoes, and caps to cover your head and ears are a must-have if you are planning on going any further up from Gangtok. Dress in layers. 

The weather was very pleasant in Gangtok, just about 23 - 24 degrees and it even made me question if I overreacted and packed a whole lot of winter wear. 

Well, I would know that the next day, when we planned to drive up to the lake. 

Tsmogo Lake 

Also known as Changu lake by the locals, is a glacial lake that is fed by a Glacier. The locals consider this lake as culturally significant as the Laamas predict the future by looking at the waters of this lake. 

This lake is situated at a height of about 13000 feet which means there is lower oxygen in the air at this altitude. There are shared cabs that bring tourists to this point or you can hire your private cab. Self-driving is not allowed to the lake from Gangtok as the roads are pretty much narrow and there are sudden fog-covered stretches as you reach higher. So only the locals who are experienced can drive those roads. 

As the fog descended on Tsomgo Lake 

The lake has still clear water and you can see the reflection of the mountains in the water. And be quick to take a picture of the lake with the reflection, because this lasted for like 2 - 3 minutes before the fog covered the entire mountain. The entire view was monochromatic because of the fog. We were there last week of March, which is pretty much the end of winter so we couldn't get clear skies. If you visit during April - May you will see the clear blue sky with pristine blue water and a clear view of Mount Kanchanjunga right behind the mountain you see in the picture. 

From the lake, there is a cable car that takes you to a higher altitude of 14000 feet where you will get to see and play with snow. So off we went in search of snow as it was the first time my Daughter would see real snow. We headed up to the mountain on the cable car, and it was windy and extremely cold. Plus the low oxygen does make you feel very uncomfortable. 

Experiencing Snow for the first time 

Marie Biscuit at 14000 feet 

  Carry some light snacks with you all the time. It could be the low oxygen or the high altitude or sheer excitement, it works up an appetite. So we had our hunger moment at the altitude of 14000 feet - Marie biscuit time!  

Another 2000 feet from the lake is the Nathula pass, we could not go to Natula pass as we did not get a permit that day. Nathula pass is the physical border between India and China. You can see the border and the soldiers from both sides standing guard. 

Btw, you need a permit to visit Changu lake as well. Since all of this falls near the army zone, permits are required for tourists. Your hotel can make the arrangements, ensure you check the days when it is open, and then arrange for your permits in advance. 

Fun Fact - Adhar card is not considered as a valid proof of identity here! Hence your passport or driving license, PAN card, and voter id will need to be carried. Keep them with you as the security forces personnel can stop you at any time and check for papers.  

Tsmogo Lake is a full day trip, do not plan anything else on that day, though the drive to the lake is only about 2 hours, you scale an altitude of 14000 feet in that time so it is strongly advisable to take it easy. Allow your body time to adjust to the altitude and low oxygen and also take your time and enjoy the view, it is not something you get to see very often. A very humbling experience indeed. 

Selfie from the highest altitude I have reached to date - I was super dizzy while taking this pic
 

My biggest worry was that my Daughter wouldn't be able to handle the altitude and she handled the entire day like a pro. I on the other hand started feeling dizzy and extremely tired due to lower Oxygen levels. Time to head back down. You realize the effect only after you are back at a lower altitude, all of us were extremely tired and decided to stay in the hotel the next day and rest before doing any further sightseeing. 

Monastries 

Gonjang Monastery

Gangtok has a lot of beautiful monasteries.  Gonjang Monastery situated about 8 km from the city is a very serene monastery. 

This was built in the year 1981. English and Tibetian languages are taught to the monk students here. The monastery also teaches Indian and Tibetian Buddhism culture to the students. 

It has some very unique religious artifacts in its library.  

Prayer Wheel 

From the monastery at about 4 km is the Gangtok market. Drive down there to get a good lunch and then some shopping and do not forget the cable car ride which gives an awesome ariel view of the city.

Food is majorly local food around here, with a lot of Tibetan cuisine influence. As a vegetarian, you might not have a lot of options. But make sure you try the Thukpa, this is a Tibetian noodle soup and one bowl fills you up.   

   

After some good food head out to MG Marg, the main shopping area in Gangtok. The best part about this place is they do not allow vehicles into the shopping area. So you will be dropped off by your cab at the entrance and you will have to walk and experience the entire MG Marg. Which I think

is a splendid idea to reduce pollution, and keep the streets clean. This is the cleanest shopping area I have seen in India to date.        

You can shop for some good handwoven carpets, and rugs if you have the option to take them back home. Else you have a lot of antique stores to buy beautiful statues, paintings, and other souvenirs. 

After shopping next stop cable car ride - something we were looking forward to the entire day. You can go and book the tickets and you will be taken in a lift to the top floor. The cable car holds about 10 people on each ride. 

The ride starts from one side of the market all the way to the other side and back.                                 

And thus ended our Gangtok trip...  My favorite out of the entire trip, my personal fav was the drive to Changu lake, a scary and exciting experience ... 

Picture Abhi Baki hai mere dost...

Next stop - Darjeeling!  We drove from Gangtok to Darjeeling the next day which was another 4 hours of winding roads up the mountain. 

More about Darjeeling in my next blog....