Gangtok - Land Of Monasteries

The much-awaited trip after 2 years .... Beautiful Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim. 

Gangtok is at a height of about 1650 m. Getting to Gangtok from Bangalore is a bit tiring but like I always say, the journey is as beautiful as the destination.  

From Bangalore, you can fly to Baghdogra which is the closest and best option. From Baghdogra you can take the road to Gangtok. It is a rough ride about 5 -6 hours with breaks. My suggestion is to hire a bigger vehicle like Innova so that you are comfortable. 

We reached Baghdogra at about 11 am in the morning after a 3.5-hour flight. Since you will be driving for long and on mountainous terrain, be well hydrated and eat well. Do not overeat or go empty stomach. A couple of must-haves from my backpack for drive up the mountains as I have a motion-sick daughter with me - lots of water, fruits like apples, some bland crackers, Marie biscuit, hard candy ( trust me this works like a charm when you are driving up winding roads ) and to be on the safer side lots of tissue paper and garbage covers. 

And we headed up the mountains from Baghdogra. Till you get out of the city limits the roads are bad with heavy traffic. After about 2 hours we finally started heading upwards and the scenery slowly started changing. 

Take ample breaks, do not try to challenge the mountains. Plan your trip with good acclimatization time, it is very important healthwise and also to enjoy your vacation. 

Our first break was after about 3 hours, we were halfway up the mountain and there was the Teesta river flowing right below us. There are small restaurants where you can stop for a chai and Maggi and enjoy the view before you move forward. 

The Teesta river is about 400 km long, it originates in the Eastern Himalayas and flows through Sikkim, West Bengal, Bangladesh, and finally enters the Bay of Bengal. 

Teesta River which originates in the Eastern Himalayas

The drive from here on was a bit rugged as there was construction going on in certain places and the roads were broken too. You definitely need to plan your trip to Gangtok considering weather conditions as these roads are extremely dangerous during rainy seasons as they are prone to landslides. 

After 6 long hours, we finally reached Club Mahindra Gangtok, the place which was our home for the next 5 days. We called it a day and had early dinner and hit the bed. I had forgotten how tiring driving through mountains makes us. 

We had to get ample rest because next on our itinerary was the Tsomgo Lake, situated at an altitude of 13000 feet. This was the first time I was doing this high altitude with my daughter. So there was a whole lot of research that had gone into this trip. 

The most important point, irrespective of when you travel to Gangtok, make sure you have your thermals and warm clothes packed. A good windcheater, fleece jacket, gloves, good shoes, and caps to cover your head and ears are a must-have if you are planning on going any further up from Gangtok. Dress in layers. 

The weather was very pleasant in Gangtok, just about 23 - 24 degrees and it even made me question if I overreacted and packed a whole lot of winter wear. 

Well, I would know that the next day, when we planned to drive up to the lake. 

Tsmogo Lake 

Also known as Changu lake by the locals, is a glacial lake that is fed by a Glacier. The locals consider this lake as culturally significant as the Laamas predict the future by looking at the waters of this lake. 

This lake is situated at a height of about 13000 feet which means there is lower oxygen in the air at this altitude. There are shared cabs that bring tourists to this point or you can hire your private cab. Self-driving is not allowed to the lake from Gangtok as the roads are pretty much narrow and there are sudden fog-covered stretches as you reach higher. So only the locals who are experienced can drive those roads. 

As the fog descended on Tsomgo Lake 

The lake has still clear water and you can see the reflection of the mountains in the water. And be quick to take a picture of the lake with the reflection, because this lasted for like 2 - 3 minutes before the fog covered the entire mountain. The entire view was monochromatic because of the fog. We were there last week of March, which is pretty much the end of winter so we couldn't get clear skies. If you visit during April - May you will see the clear blue sky with pristine blue water and a clear view of Mount Kanchanjunga right behind the mountain you see in the picture. 

From the lake, there is a cable car that takes you to a higher altitude of 14000 feet where you will get to see and play with snow. So off we went in search of snow as it was the first time my Daughter would see real snow. We headed up to the mountain on the cable car, and it was windy and extremely cold. Plus the low oxygen does make you feel very uncomfortable. 

Experiencing Snow for the first time 

Marie Biscuit at 14000 feet 

  Carry some light snacks with you all the time. It could be the low oxygen or the high altitude or sheer excitement, it works up an appetite. So we had our hunger moment at the altitude of 14000 feet - Marie biscuit time!  

Another 2000 feet from the lake is the Nathula pass, we could not go to Natula pass as we did not get a permit that day. Nathula pass is the physical border between India and China. You can see the border and the soldiers from both sides standing guard. 

Btw, you need a permit to visit Changu lake as well. Since all of this falls near the army zone, permits are required for tourists. Your hotel can make the arrangements, ensure you check the days when it is open, and then arrange for your permits in advance. 

Fun Fact - Adhar card is not considered as a valid proof of identity here! Hence your passport or driving license, PAN card, and voter id will need to be carried. Keep them with you as the security forces personnel can stop you at any time and check for papers.  

Tsmogo Lake is a full day trip, do not plan anything else on that day, though the drive to the lake is only about 2 hours, you scale an altitude of 14000 feet in that time so it is strongly advisable to take it easy. Allow your body time to adjust to the altitude and low oxygen and also take your time and enjoy the view, it is not something you get to see very often. A very humbling experience indeed. 

Selfie from the highest altitude I have reached to date - I was super dizzy while taking this pic
 

My biggest worry was that my Daughter wouldn't be able to handle the altitude and she handled the entire day like a pro. I on the other hand started feeling dizzy and extremely tired due to lower Oxygen levels. Time to head back down. You realize the effect only after you are back at a lower altitude, all of us were extremely tired and decided to stay in the hotel the next day and rest before doing any further sightseeing. 

Monastries 

Gonjang Monastery

Gangtok has a lot of beautiful monasteries.  Gonjang Monastery situated about 8 km from the city is a very serene monastery. 

This was built in the year 1981. English and Tibetian languages are taught to the monk students here. The monastery also teaches Indian and Tibetian Buddhism culture to the students. 

It has some very unique religious artifacts in its library.  

Prayer Wheel 

From the monastery at about 4 km is the Gangtok market. Drive down there to get a good lunch and then some shopping and do not forget the cable car ride which gives an awesome ariel view of the city.

Food is majorly local food around here, with a lot of Tibetan cuisine influence. As a vegetarian, you might not have a lot of options. But make sure you try the Thukpa, this is a Tibetian noodle soup and one bowl fills you up.   

   

After some good food head out to MG Marg, the main shopping area in Gangtok. The best part about this place is they do not allow vehicles into the shopping area. So you will be dropped off by your cab at the entrance and you will have to walk and experience the entire MG Marg. Which I think

is a splendid idea to reduce pollution, and keep the streets clean. This is the cleanest shopping area I have seen in India to date.        

You can shop for some good handwoven carpets, and rugs if you have the option to take them back home. Else you have a lot of antique stores to buy beautiful statues, paintings, and other souvenirs. 

After shopping next stop cable car ride - something we were looking forward to the entire day. You can go and book the tickets and you will be taken in a lift to the top floor. The cable car holds about 10 people on each ride. 

The ride starts from one side of the market all the way to the other side and back.                                 

And thus ended our Gangtok trip...  My favorite out of the entire trip, my personal fav was the drive to Changu lake, a scary and exciting experience ... 

Picture Abhi Baki hai mere dost...

Next stop - Darjeeling!  We drove from Gangtok to Darjeeling the next day which was another 4 hours of winding roads up the mountain. 

More about Darjeeling in my next blog....